Barley reputation entices brewmaster to Sask.

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Published: July 14, 2017

Thrilled to take over the helm at Great Western Brewing, Amanda Butt says she hopes to experiment with other grains

Women have been brewing beer for centuries and the new brewmaster at Great Western Brewing in Saskatoon is carrying on that tradition.

Beer and its consumption might seem like a male domain but that is really only true of the last 150 years or so, said Amanda Butt.

Butt arrived at Great Western in February. Originally from Newfoundland and Labrador, she is finally working in the homeland of something she has found all over the world: Saskatchewan malt barley.

“I’ve worked in breweries all over this continent and over in Europe, and Saskatchewan barley is sought after for beer production,” she said during a presentation at Canada’s Farm Progress Show.

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“I don’t know if it’s the soil or it’s the care that people take with it, but I mean people come here for the grain. It’s of incredible high quality. It’s incredibly consistent. Kernel size is fantastic and it’s just right for brewing. In all of the breweries I’ve worked in at some point we’ve used Saskatchewan barley.”

Butt studied biochemistry in Newfoundland then went to Scotland to obtain a master’s degree in brewing and distilling.

She worked in various roles for Labatt Breweries and then landed with Boston Beer Co. in Massachusetts as brewing manager and head of research and development operations. That company’s flagship product is Samuel Adams.

When she heard the story of Great Western and how 16 original partners took a huge gamble on the business after Carling O’Keefe and Molson Brewing amalgamated and decided to close, she said she was compelled to move.

“How do you not want to become a part of that?” she said.

Great Western was built in 1927 as Hub City Brewing Co., became Western Canada Brewing in 1930 and Drewery’s in 1932. O’Keefe Brewing acquired it in 1956 and ran it until 1989.

The previous brewmaster retired at the end of April after 50 years of experience and the last decade at Great Western.

Butt said it added up to an experience she couldn’t resist.

She said quality issues with last year’s grain crop haven’t hit the brewery, thanks to a strong working relationship with Prairie Malt at Biggar, Sask. She said they have monitored quality closely and kept in constant communication.

Butt doesn’t rule out experimenting with different grains to produce a wider variety of beers.

“Barley is going to be the foundation of most beers,” she said. “It’s interesting to see people experiment with sorghum and lentils and all of these other grains that you would not normally consider with beer. I fear no grain.”

There is a growing movement of women involved in brewing but she said gender is not a factor in determining who makes a good brewer.

“In fact, I’m convinced any man can brew a beer just as good as any woman so I don’t think it plays a role,” she said, tongue planted firmly in cheek.

About the author

Karen Briere

Karen Briere

Karen Briere grew up in Canora, Sask. where her family had a grain and cattle operation. She has a degree in journalism from the University of Regina and has spent more than 30 years covering agriculture from the Western Producer’s Regina bureau.

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