Pie is a favourite for young and old alike, but if the flakiness factor has been elusive in your pastry making, you are not alone.
There are three basic ingredients in pastry dough: flour, fat and water.
Water added to flour hydrates the gluten protein, which can become glue-like and tough.
When fat is cut into the flour first, it surrounds the flour particles and prevents the gluten from developing. As a result, the dough remains tender. The flakes in pastry are produced when some fat is left crumbly. As the pastry bakes, fat melts and leaves spaces, which creates flakes.
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A tender, flaky and flavourful crust is the goal, and fat is key to both flavour and texture. Adding butter adds flavour.
All ingredients should be really cold, even the water and eggs. Put the dough in the refrigerator for a while to chill if it becomes warm.
Dough should be chilled for at least an hour before rolling and 30 minutes after it is fitted in the pan.
A food processor is handy and works the dough quickly, which helps keep it cold. Be careful not to overwork. If you are going to err, err on the side of adding too much liquid. A dry crumbly crust is difficult to roll.
Roll dough on a lightly floured work surface or roll between two sheets of waxed or parchment paper. You can also use a rolling pin cover.
As you roll, rotate the dough one-eighth turn and roll from the centre out to keep it round. Don’t stretch the dough because it will shrink in the oven. You can patch tears with scraps that have been lightly moistened and pressed into place.
Jennifer Schell’s new cookbook, The Butcher, The Baker, The Wine & Cheese Maker, is a collection of recipes from chefs, friends and family in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley.
This is her mother’s recipe for rhubarb pie
Mom’s rhubarb pie
- 4 c. fresh rhubarb 1 L
- 1 tsp. baking soda 5 mL
- 2 eggs
- 1 tbsp. milk 15 mL
- 1 1/2 c. sugar 375 mL
- 1/3 c. flour 85 mL
- 1 tbsp. butter, room temperature pastry for single or double crust 15 mL
Pour hot water over rhubarb in a large bowl, stir in baking soda and let sit. In bowl, beat together eggs, milk, flour, sugar and butter. Drain rhubarb and add. Stir just to incorporate.
Fill unbaked pie shell. Bake with only a bottom crust or add top crust or lattice top.
Bake for 1 1/2 hours at 350 F (180 C) on rack in bottom third of oven.
Saskatoon berry pie
I have always made saskatoon berry pie with fresh or frozen berries, tossed in sugar and flour and poured into an unbaked shell. The result was never that great. This recipe keeps berries juicy and tender without a thin, runny filling.
- 4 c. saskatoon berries 1 L
- 3/4 c. sugar 375 mL
- 3 tbsp. flour 45 mL
- 1/4 c. water 60 mL
- pastry for double crust pie
- 2 tbsp. lemon juice 30 mL
In a saucepan, simmer saskatoon berries in water for 10 minutes. Add lemon juice. Stir in sugar mixed with flour. Bring back to a boil and remove from heat. Cool to room temperature.
Pour into pastry lined pie plate. Dot with butter. Cover with top crust, seal and flute edges. Cut vents.
Bake in 425 F (220 C) oven for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 F (180 C) oven and bake 35 to 45 minutes longer or until golden brown.
Verdella’s peach flat pie
My neighbour introduced me to flat pie. She finds it easy to take to the field. The pastry-to-filling ratio is higher so be sure to roll thinly. Any fruit or berry can be used.
- 1 pastry recipe
- 8-10 peaches, peeled and sliced
- 1 c. sugar, or to taste 250 mL
- 3 tbsp. cornstarch 15 mL
To peel peaches, cut an X on the bottom of the fruit and then blanch them in boiling water for about a minute and chill in ice water. The peel will come off easily. Slice, remove pit and place fruit in water with 2 tbsp. (30 mL) of lemon juice so it doesn’t darken.
Roll pastry large enough to cover a 9 x 13 inch (20 cm x 30 cm) rimmed sheet pan. Lay pastry over the pan and gently press into place. Drain and toss sliced peaches with sugar and cornstarch. Arrange evenly over pastry. Roll the top crust and place over fruit. Trim pastry if necessary before tucking it under and crimping the edges. Cut vents. Bake at 425 F (220 C) for 15 minutes and reduce to 350 F (180 C) and bake 35 to 45 minutes longer.
Verdella’s perfect pastry
- 5 1/2 c. all purpose flour 1.375 L
- 2 tsp. salt 10 mL
- 1 tbsp. baking powder 5 mL
- 1 lb. lard 500 g
- 1 tbsp. vinegar 15 mL
- 1 egg, lightly beaten
- cold water
Mix together flour, baking powder and salt. Cut in lard with pastry blender or your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse oatmeal.
In a liquid measuring cup, combine vinegar and egg. Add cold water to make one cup in total. Gradually stir into flour and lard mixture. Add only enough to make the dough cling together.
Knead gently until it all clings to-gether. Shape into four flattened balls, or if making flat pie, shape into two. Wrap with plastic and chill 30 to 60 minutes or freeze until use.
This is enough pastry for two nine inch pies or one flat pie.
Good for almost everything pie dough
- 3 c. all purpose flour 750 mL
- 1/4 c. sugar 60 mL
- 1 1/2 tsp. salt 8 mL
- 1 1/4 c. very cold or frozen butter, cut into small pieces 340 mL
- 1/3 c. very cold or frozen vegetable shortening, cut into 4 pieces 85 mL
- 1/2 c. (approx.) ice water 125 mL
Combine flour, sugar and salt in food processor fitted with metal blade. Pulse just to combine ingredients.
Add butter and shortening and pulse only until they are cut into flour. You should have some pieces the size of peas and the other the size of barley.
Pulsing, gradually add about six tbsp. of water. If this looks dry, add more water as you pulse. You want dough that sticks together when pinched.
Remove to a work surface. Divide into two balls and flatten each ball. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour. When well wrapped, this can keep in the refrigerator for up to five days or frozen for up to two months. It can be rolled and frozen in the pan. Source: Dorie Greenspan
Glass vs. metal pie pans
Pyrex pans are traditional and you can see if the bottom is browned. Remember that glass will hold heat longer and continue to cook after removing from the oven.
Glass is still considered better for pies. If you are using metal pans, dull metal is better than shiny metal for browned crusts.
Sarah Galvin is a home economist, teacher and farmers’ market vendor at Swift Current, Sask., and a member of Team Resources. She writes a blog at allourfingersinthepie.blogspot.ca. Contact: team@producer.com.
