The Summer Olympics in Paris were dazzling and captured our imagination.
There were so many memorable moments, but perhaps the highlight was the performance by Celine Dion at the Eiffel Tower. I doubt there was a dry eye in the audience while watching her first performance in over five years.
These events inspired me to revisit some favourite Parisian foods.
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But first. I want to announce the winners of the two books offered in the July 18, issue. The winner of Vegetables – A Love Story by Renee Kohlman is Joan Feather from Saskatoon. The winner of The Prairie Gardener’s Go-To for Vegetables by Janet Melrose and Sheryl Normandeau is Donna Okkema from Vermilion, Alta. Thank you to everyone who entered the draw.
Steak frites
- 3 russet potatoes cut into thin julienned pieces
- sea salt to taste
- 2 – 12-oz. strip loin steaks 365 g
- 2 tbsp. canola oil 30 mL
- 8-10 sprigs of fresh thyme
- or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme 2 mL
- 6-8 garlic cloves
- 4 tbsp. unsalted butter 60 mL
- sea salt and pepper, to taste
- truffle butter, recipe follows
Add the cut potatoes to a bowl of cold water and swish around to remove starch. Drain. Dry in a kitchen towel.
Fry them in a deep fryer or a pot of oil at 300 F (150 C) for three minutes. Remove and drain.
When ready to serve, turn the oil to 375 F (190 C) and cook for three to five more minutes. Remove from oil and toss with salt in a bowl and serve.
To prepare the steak, season on both sides with salt and pepper.
Add the oil to a large frying pan over high heat. Once shimmering, add the steaks and turn the heat down to medium.
Add thyme, garlic and butter and cook for three to five minutes per side for a medium-rare internal temperature. The timing will depend upon the thickness of the steak. Once you turn the steaks over, baste them with pan juices until they are done.
Rest steak for three to four minutes before slicing and serve with truffle butter and frites. Serves four.
Truffle butter
- 1 c. butter unsalted 250 mL
- 2 tbsp. black truffle grated 30 mL
- 2 tsp. kosher salt 10 mL
Grate truffle. Allow the butter to come to room temperature on the counter. This should take about an hour.
Add all ingredients to a bowl. Mash together.
Lay the butter on plastic wrap or parchment paper. Roll tightly into a log. Use immediately or freeze for future use.
Croque Monsieur
- 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 30 mL
- 3 tbsp. all-purpose flour 45 mL
- 2 c. hot milk 500 mL
- 1 tsp. kosher salt 5 mL
- 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 mL
- pinch nutmeg
- 12 oz. gruyere, grated 365 g
- 1/2 c. freshly grated parmesan 125 mL
- 16 slices white sandwich bread, crusts removed
- dijon mustard
- 8 oz. ham slices 250 g
Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C).
Melt butter over low heat in a small saucepan and add flour all at once, stirring with a wooden spoon for two minutes. Slowly pour the hot milk into the butter-flour mixture and cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce is thickened. Take off the heat and add salt, pepper, nutmeg, 1/2 cup (125 mL) grated gruyere and parmesan. Set aside.
To toast the bread, place the slices on two baking sheets and bake for five minutes. Turn each slice and bake for another two minutes, until toasted.
Lightly brush half the toasted breads with mustard, add a slice of ham to each and sprinkle with half the remaining Gruyere. Top with another piece of toasted bread. Slather the tops with the cheese sauce, sprinkle with the remaining gruyere and bake the sandwiches for five minutes. Turn on the broiler and broil for three to five minutes, or until the topping is bubbly and lightly browned. Serve hot. Serves eight.
Adapted from Barefoot in Paris by Ina Garten.
Easy duck confit
There is no fast way to make duck confit, but this recipe eliminates the 24 to 36 hours curing and does not require having enough duck fat to cover the legs during cooking.
- duck legs (at least 1 per person)
- kosher salt
Pat the duck legs dry with paper towels. Prick the skin of the duck all over with a needle or sharp point of a knife. Be sure to get the area where skin covers fat. Avoid piercing the meat. This will allow the fat that lies under the skin to seep out. and produce crispy skin.
Salt the duck legs well, more than you think you should. Let them rest at room temperature for at least 20 minutes and up to one hour. You can even salt the duck and refrigerate it, uncovered, up to eight hours ahead of time.
When ready to cook, wipe off excess salt and put the duck legs in a small casserole, skin side up. You want it just big enough to hold the legs. Put a thin sheen of oil or melted duck fat on the bottom of the casserole and then place the duck legs close together but not overlapping. Cover with foil or a close fitting lid.
Put the casserole in the oven and heat it to 300 F (150 C).
Bake two to three hours. Baste with the fat every 20 to 30 minutes after enough has rendered out.
If the skin is not crispy when the legs are tender, turn up the heat to 375 F (190 C) and uncover. Check after 10 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Save the rendered fat for cooking vegetables or other meats. Strain the fat through cheesecloth. It will keep for six months in the freezer. Well wrapped, the duck meat itself will last up to one week in the refrigerator.
Duck fat potatoes
- 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes 500 g
- 2-3 tbsp. duck fat, melted 30-45 mL
- salt and pepper
- handful of freshly chopped parsley
Heat the oven to 375 F (190 C). Scrub the potatoes in water. Dry and cut into long wedges. Toss with the fat and season with salt and pepper. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake, stirring once or twice, until golden and crisp, 30 to 40 minutes. Scatter parsley over potatoes. Toss and spoon into a serving bowl.
Mixed leaves with truffle oil dressing
- 2 tsp. champagne or white wine vinegar 10 mL
- 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 5 mL
- 1/4 c. olive or canola oil 60 mL
- truffle oil
- squeeze of lemon juice
- salt and pepper
- 6 handfuls of mixed greens
- 1/2 c. grated parmesan
- 1/2 c. coarsely chopped, lightly toasted hazelnuts
In a salad bowl, whisk together the vinegar and mustard and then whisk in the oil in a thin stream until emulsified. Whisk in truffle oil and lemon juice to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Add the greens, parmesan cheese and nuts. Toss to coat and serve immediately.
Serves six. Adapted from Paris Express by Laura Calder.
Sarah Galvin is a home economist, teacher and avid supporter of local food producers. She has been a market vendor, grew up on a farm in southeastern Saskatchewan and is a member of TEAM Resources.