I know we can barbecue all year long but that first hot sunny day on the patio or beach can’t come soon enough.
To improve your burger game bake better buns. Brioche buns are flavourful, rich and buttery, thin but dense enough to handle the burger. This recipe for brioche buns can be made a few days in advance and the dough held in the refrigerator until needed. Bake them fresh for best results.
Smash burgers are easy to make. Simply form the meat into a ball and squash it down when it is on the grill. This makes all sorts of little jagged edges and crispy bits. The classic burger with a slice of juicy tomato, crispy onions and lettuce with melty cheese is a favourite but perhaps it’s time to try something different. Here is an idea for a special summer barbecue.
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Smash burger au poivre
This is a showcase hamburger for special occasions.
Buy the best ground beef you can find if you don’t want to grind your own. If using your own homegrown ranched beef you can grind it and grill to the doneness you prefer but if it’s grocery store ground beef be sure to cook until it reaches an internal temperature of 160 F (77 C).
- 1 lb. short rib 500 g
- 1 lb. skirt steak 500 g
- 1/4 c. butter 60 mL
- 8 brioche buns
- 8 cheese slices
Sauce au poivre:
- 1/4 c. butter, divided 60 mL
- 1 shallot
- 1/4 c. brandy 60 mL
- 1 c. heavy cream 250 mL
- 1 1/2 tsp. black pepper, freshly ground 7 mL
- 1 tbsp. brined green peppercorns, drained and rinsed 15 mL
- Caramelized onion
- 1 yellow onion, sliced
- 2 tbsp. canola oil 30 mL
- salt and pepper, to taste
For the burger:
Grind the short rib and skirt steak, if using.
Form the ground meat into balls with no spices or seasoning.
Split the buns in half and butter both halves then toast in a heated skillet on medium-high heat. Remove and set aside.
Place meat on the hot skillet or on a hot grill and flatten balls with a metal spatula. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper on the patty in the pan. Cook on first side until browned and turn to cook the second side.
Assemble the burger on the toasted bun with cheese, caramelized onions and sauce au poivre.<
For the sauce au poivre:
In the skillet used to cook the burger, or a clean skillet if you barbecued, heat two tablespoons (30 mL) of butter and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally until lightly browned.
Add brandy and cook, stirring occasionally until reduced by half. Be sure to scrape up all the browned bits on the bottom of the pan.
Add cream, two tablespoons (30 mL) of butter, freshly ground pepper and brined green peppercorns. Simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.
For the caramelized onion:
Cut onion into slices about 1/2 inch (.5 cm) thick and separate the layers. Heat canola oil in a medium pot and add the onions. Stir often.
Turn the heat to medium and cover and cook for five minutes.
Add water to deglaze with pan as needed and scrape up the crispy bits from the bottom of the pot.
Add a pinch of salt, stir and return the cover.
Brioche buns
Brioche is usually made by adding small cubes of soft butter to the dough but this recipe, using melted butter, is much easier with excellent results.
- 1 1/2 c. lukewarm water 375 mL
- 1 1/2 tbsp. yeast 22 mL
- 1 1/2 tbsp. kosher salt 22 mL
- 8 eggs, lightly beaten
- 1/2 c. honey125 mL
- 1 1/2 c. unsalted butter, melted 375 mL
- 7 1/2 c. unbleached all-purpose or bread flour 1.875 L
- egg wash of 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp. water 15 mL
Mix the yeast, salt, eggs, honey and melted butter with the water in a five-quart (1.25 L) bowl or the bowl from your stand mixer
Mix in the flour without kneading, using a spoon or a stand mixer with a dough hook. The dough will be loose but will firm up with chilling. Don’t try to work it before chilling.
Cover loosely and rest until it is about double in size, about two hours.
Refrigerate and use over the next five days. The dough can be used as soon as it is chilled. It can be frozen up to four weeks. If frozen, defrost in the refrigerator 24 hours before using.
Shape dough and bake at 350 F (180 C) for about 35-40 minutes. Cool before slicing.
Makes 24 buns (90 grams). Adapted from Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day.
Baked thick-cut fries
- 6 large baking potatoes, washed and cut into fat, thumb-sized strips or wedges
- 4-6 tbsp. oil 60-90 mL
- salt, to taste
- freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- dried rosemary, thyme, or chili flakes, to taste, optional
Preheat oven to 450 F (250 C).
Arrange potato strips in a single layer on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper, placed on the top oven rack.
Drizzle with oil and toss with your hands. You want every bit of potato to glisten with oil, but you do not want them drenched. Add the dried herbs, if using.
Bake for about 15 minutes and then toss the potatoes and continue to bake for another 15 minutes or until the fries reach the colour and crispness that you like.
Season with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper while still hot.
Onion rings
Surprisingly, these freeze well and make a nice snack straight from the freezer.
- 1 whole large onion, sweet like a Vidalia or Walla Walla
- 1 c. buttermilk 250 mL
- 1 c. all-purpose flour 250 mL
- 1 1/2 tsp. salt 7 mL
- 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 mL
- 4 c. canola oil 1 L
- black pepper, to taste
Slice onion very thinly. Place in a baking dish and cover with buttermilk and soak for at least an hour.
Combine dry ingredients and set aside.
375 F (190 C).
Using kitchen tongs, grab some of the onions and shake the excess buttermilk off and toss into the flour mixture. Toss around to coat thoroughly and tap to shake off excess flour and plunge into hot oil. Fry until golden brown.
Drain on a cooling rack placed on a baking sheet.
Repeat until onions are gone. Keep warm in a 325 F (160 C) oven until served. Salt while still hot.
Bacon jam
This is so good on burgers. No other sauce is needed. Make it and keep a jar on hand in the refrigerator. It keeps for about two weeks.
- 1 lb. bacon, chopped 500 g
- 2 tsp. butter 10 mL
- 4 large yellow onions, diced
- 1/2 tsp. salt 2 mL
- 1/4 c. brown sugar 60 mL
- 1/4 c. sherry vinegar 60 mL
- 1/2 tsp. dried thyme, divided 3 mL
- 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 5 mL
- 1 pinch cayenne pepper
- 1/2 c. water 125 mL
- 2 tsp. balsamic vinegar 10 mL
- 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil 10 mL
Place bacon in a large, heavy-bottomed pot and cook over medium heat until bacon is crispy and the rendered fat is foaming, about 10 minutes. Pour bacon and rendered fat into a strainer placed over a bowl to drain fat. When fat is drained and bacon is cool enough to handle, remove bacon to a cutting board and finely chop.
Return pot to medium heat and drizzle one teaspoon (five mL) reserved bacon fat and butter in pan. Sauté onions and one teaspoon (five mL) salt until soft and translucent, seven to 10 minutes.
Stir brown sugar, sherry vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) thyme leaves, black pepper and cayenne into onion mixture and add bacon. Stir water into bacon mixture and cook until jam is a brick-brown bacon color and has a jam consistency, 10 to 15 minutes.
Remove from heat and stir balsamic vinegar, olive oil and remaining thyme into jam and stir until shiny and heated through.
Sarah Galvin is a home economist, teacher and farmers’ market vendor at Swift Current, Sask., and a member of Team Resources. She writes a blog at allourfingersinthepie.blogspot.ca. Contact: team@producer.com.
