The countdown is on. Although Christmas dinner is usually a set menu, it is nice to change things up from time to time. If it is your first time hosting, then here are some tried and true tips for success.
The best mashed potatoes
Starchy potatoes such as Yukon gold or russets are the best for making mashed potatoes because they contain less moisture. Starting the potatoes in cold water rather than adding them to hot water allows them to cook more evenly. The water should be heavily salted. I use kosher salt. Don’t be shy.
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It is better to leave the potatoes whole, if they are similar sizes, or cutting into larger chunks because they will absorb less water than cutting them into small pieces.
- 4 lb. Yukon gold potatoes 2 kg
- 1 1/2 c. whole milk 375 mL
- 1/2 c. whipping cream 125 mL
- 1/2 c. butter, at room temperature 125 mL
- kosher salt and pepper to taste
- any combination of sage, fresh garlic, rosemary, thyme
- 2 tbsp. cream cheese, optional 30 mL
Prepare potatoes and put in a large pot filled with cold water. Salt the water heavily and put on the stove. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to maintain a gentle boil.
Meanwhile, add the herbs and garlic to the milk and cream and heat over low heat. Keep the milk mixture warm until the potatoes are cooked.
Drain the potatoes and put them back in the pot. The residual heat of the pot will help to dry them out and get rid of excess moisture.
A potato ricer makes the best mashed potatoes, if you have one. Otherwise use a potato masher to break down the potatoes.
Add the butter to mashed potatoes and let it melt.
Strain herbs from the milk and discard. Add half of milk mixture to the riced or mashed potatoes. Mix in gently with a rubber spatula.
As the milk mixture is absorbed add more until all of it is used.
These can be made a day in advance and reheated. Add more milk the next day if the potatoes are too thick.
To make mashed potatoes for the lactose intolerant person use olive oil instead of butter and potato water or chicken stock instead of milk.
Million dollar gravy
If you are short of stock for the gravy, red wine can be added to the stock to top up what you have.
- 2 tbsp. turkey drippings 30 mL
- 2 tbsp. butter 30 mL
- 2 c. turkey, chicken or vegetable stock 500 mL
- 1 tbsp. aged balsamic vinegar, optional 15 mL
- salt & pepper, to taste
- 1/4 c. flour 60 mL
Use the pan the turkey was roasted in and heat over medium setting on the stovetop. If there is a lot of fat from the bird, drain off all but two tablespoons (30 mL) and add two tablespoons (30 mL) butter.
Stir in the flour to fully incorporate it with the oil. Cook over medium heat for three to four minutes or until it smells nutty.
Add hot stock slowly while constantly stirring. It is easier to thin out a thick gravy but harder to thicken a thin gravy, so start with less liquid than you think you need.
Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for about five minutes, or until thickened. It will continue to thicken as it cools so keep this in mind.
Strain out all the bits that have been scraped up from the pan and discard.
Stir in balsamic vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Gluten-free gravy
Cornstarch can be substituted in equal amounts for flour and thickens equally well. Another idea is to puree roasted root vegetables and add them instead of flour. Roast carrots, fennel root, parsnips and potatoes in the pan with the turkey. Add them in the last hour of cooking so they are very tender but not mushy. Then puree them in the blender with chicken or vegetable stock and reheat.
Tips for a great bird
First and foremost, the best tip for a delicious turkey is to buy a quality bird. Avoid the ones injected with fat and butter and rather go for a local farm-raised turkey if possible.
After two decades of brining, the practice is losing popularity. It takes space and time. Over-brining can create a too-salty turkey and the drippings are often too salty to use for making gravy.
A heritage breed turkey that is skinny and lean may benefit from brining.
If you are planning to deep fry the bird, brining is definitely not recommended. The extra moisture just causes problems with the hot oil.
Rather than brining, home cooks and chefs are opting to rub the turkey with butter or oil and then seasoning it with kosher or sea salt and black pepper. Butter can be pushed under the skin of the breast to add juiciness to the light meat. Leaving the bird uncovered in the refrigerator for a day before roasting will dry the skin for a crispier finish when roasted.
Trussing the turkey keeps the wing tips and legs from becoming over cooked.
They are tied tight to the body to prevent it from becoming dry.
Here’s a great carving tip I learned a few years back. You know how difficult it is to take out nice slices of breast meat? Well, if you remove the wishbone first, the breast will then be much easier to slice. It is at the top of the breast just inside the neck cavity.
And then there is always the horror story that the bird is undercooked and the meal must go on. In this case, remove the bird from the oven and cut into very large pieces — the leg and thigh is one, split the breast in half and lay out the pieces in the roasting pan or on a sheet pan. They will cook much faster when broken down.
Honey whole wheat pan rolls
I know many will ask if these can be frozen before baking and the answer is no. In order for yeast to be successful it needs one good rising at room temperature before freezing. However, these may be kept in the refrigerator for up to three days before baking.
- 4 to 5 c. bread flour 1-1.25 L
- 1/4 c. sugar 60 mL
- 2 pkg. instant yeast
- 1 tsp. salt 5 mL
- 1 c. milk 250 mL
- 1 c. butter, cubed 250 mL
- 1/2 c. water 125 mL
- 2 large eggs
- 2 c. whole wheat flour 500 mL
Honey butter
- 1 c. butter, softened 250 mL
- 7 tbsp. liquid honey 105 mL
Honey glaze
- 2 tbsp. honey 30 mL
- 1 tbsp. butter, melted 15 mL
In a large bowl, combine two cups bread flour, sugar, yeast and salt. In a small saucepan, heat the milk, butter and water to 120-130 F (50-55 C). Add to dry ingredients. Beat just until moistened. Beat in eggs. Stir in whole wheat flour and enough remaining bread flour to form a soft dough.
Turn onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover and let rest 15 minutes.
Divide dough into thirds. Roll each portion into a 20-inch rope. Cut each into 20 pieces and shape each into a ball. Grease three nine-inch (22 cm) round baking pans. Arrange 20 balls in each pan. Spray lightly with oil, cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 1/4 hours. Bake at 350 F (180 C) until golden brown, 18-22 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cream butter. Add honey and beat until light and fluffy. Remove rolls from pans to wire racks. Combine glaze ingredients and brush over warm rolls. Serve with honey butter.
Aged eggnog
I may have shared this recipe in the past but it is worth another mention. It bears no resemblance to the store-bought eggnog. Egg whites can be frozen in a glass jar for a future use. Buy the best quality alcohol you can afford. This can be made up to a year in advance. Keep refrigerated.
- 12 egg yolks
- 2 c. granulated sugar 500 mL
- 4 c. bourbon or rye whiskey 1 L
- 4 c. whole milk 1 L
- 1 c. heavy cream 250 mL
- 3/4 c. cognac or brandy 200 mL
- 1/2 c. dark rum 125 mL
- pinch kosher salt
Combine the yolks and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until well-blended and creamy.
Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine.
Transfer the mixture to a one-gallon glass jar and tightly seal the lid. Place in the refrigerator for at least three weeks. Serve well chilled.
Serve topped with sweet meringue and freshly grated nutmeg, if you wish.
Sarah Galvin is a home economist, teacher and farmers’ market vendor at Swift Current, Sask., and a member of Team Resources. She writes a blog at allourfingersinthepie.blogspot.ca. Contact: team@producer.com.