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Local lettuce growers relieve shortage

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Published: January 26, 2023

Becky Newhook stands in front of the kale and romaine lettuce her company grows.  |  Adeline Panamaroff photo

An urban hydroponic farm in Edmonton capitalizes on public interest in local produce and recent shortage from the U.S.

Lettuce has been scarce in major Canadian grocery chains this winter, prompting many shoppers to take another look at local sources.

Many sellers at farmers markets had already enjoyed increased sales since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, when more consumers took an interest in supporting local businesses.

One such business is Vertical Roots Canada, an urban hydroponic farm in Edmonton. The surge in public support for local produce and the recent lettuce shortage from the United States have boosted the company’s success.

I think what makes our farm unique is the amount of customization … and the fact that we don’t run as high an electrical use,” said Vertical Roots master grower Mike Newhook.

“We’re not as heavy on the grid as the average farm. Most automated farms are push button (operated) and they just draw electricity, probably double what we are using.”

Inspired by their visits to the Philippines, the husband-and-wife team of Mike and Becky Newhook took what they learned from prototype farms they helped build overseas and constructed an indoor hydroponic farm that can operate year-round in any urban or rural setting.

The company currently operates in Edmonton, and Mike said it hopes to add a second farm in the city, as well as another Alberta farm in Whitecourt and farms in Sudbury, Ont., and Yellowknife by March. He said by the middle of 2023, the company hopes to have at least five farms.

“I was just completely (disgusted by the) product that we’re eating from California that has no flavour and no nutrients, and who knows where it came from? Who really knows what was sprayed on that plant? Who really knows what happened in the truck? I think just the creation of a business was really my desire,” he said.

Mike and Becky not only want to get fresh leafy greens out to Edmonton customers, but they also have a broader community in mind, donating their extra supply to area food banks.

As well, while testing new crops, often the harvested results are unsellable. In these cases, Becky said the greens went to local farms to feed rabbits or chickens.

Mike Newhook, with his wife, Becky, run Vertical Roots, which grows and markets leafy greens in the Edmonton area. | Becky Newhook photo

She said every week, they dropped off one or two bags that weren’t suitable for human markets.

Becky said the company has also tried to be flexible in how it sells its goods.

“We would sell smaller (heads of lettuce), three of them in a bag for $4 a head. We call them Small and Mighty. They look weird, they might be small, but they taste the same, and they are 50 percent off. It’s still meeting our margins and someone’s still going to take it. It also suits every budget. …I have seniors and we always give them 10 percent off.”

The greens are always delivered with the roots on, whether selling to individuals or restaurant chefs. Care cards with instructions are included with the produce to help keep the lettuce fresh and green longer.

Educating customers about how to care for their produce has been part of the journey, Becky said.

“Once they get it in, we don’t want them to keep the roots on, actually, because the moment you take it out of the water, it begins to die.”

Vertical Roots Canada has crops growing year-round, but there is a seasonal rotation to what they offer. During summer Swiss chard and spinach are in the mix. The mainstays, however, are the three lettuce types: leafy green and red, and romaine.

Vertical Roots has supplied lettuce, kale, arugula, and spinach to multiple restaurant venues and also has it for sale at a local farmers market.

About the author

Adeline Panamaroff

Adeline Panamaroff is a freelance writer living in Edmonton.

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