Rob Fuller never thought he’d end up championing the many uses of oats.
“I actually didn’t even like oats,” says the chef and owner of Zest Restaurant in Regina.
But that was before he spent six months cooking as much as he could with various oat bases such as meal, flour and steel cuts.
“It’s the underdog of the grains,” he now says.
His experimentation with flavours and textures is part of his work with FarmPure Foods and its new venture – products marketed under the Only Oats brand.
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Much of the product development takes place in a state-of-the-art kitchen next to FarmPure’s head office. Complete with overhead cameras and a reception area, the kitchen can be used for cooking classes and demonstrations and to showcase food for company clients.
FarmPure recently opened a plant dedicated solely to oat processing and packaging. The idea was to fill a need for people who want the health benefits of oats and for those with celiac disease who can eat oats as long as they are free of any other grain.
The process involves a unique roasting procedure that Fuller said turns raw oats into a workable product that performs well in a variety of applications.
He’s developed dry rubs for meat, breakfast blends, pancake mixes, pilaf and a host of other products based on oats. All the ingredients are natural and identifiable.
Fuller’s ideas are tested at the Saskatchewan Food Centre in Saskatoon to see if they can be taken to the commercial level and if they’re economical.
He said he’s proudest of his muffin mix.
“It was the toughest one to produce,” he said. “I had to look at using different rising agents. I’m only using oat flour as a base.”
Most gluten-free mixes contain a mixture of flours, such as rice, potato and tapioca.
Fuller grew up in England and trained there and in France before working as a personal chef to celebrities such as author Danielle Steele and designer Giorgio Armani.
He came to Regina after marrying and moving to his wife’s hometown.
He’s been involved in a couple of restaurants and about a year ago opened Zest Restaurant in the Saskatchewan Science Centre.
Last week, he incorporated oat-based gluten-free items into the regular menu.
Fuller said he saw a need for gluten-free dishes that could be obtained without any hassle. It makes those requesting such items feel less self-conscious and makes Zest unique in the Regina restaurant market.
“It isn’t a difficult thing to get your head around in the kitchen,” Fuller said.
The nine chefs who work at Zest make their own gluten-free bread and use steel cut oats as the starch base in dishes such as risotto.
Fuller said all staff members know the importance of keeping gluten-free food free from contamination.
“This is how safe it’s got to be,” he said of their instructions.
Fuller said chefs aren’t taught during their training about gluten-free diets and how easy it can be to modify items to suit more people.
But as the incidence of celiac disease grows, the demand for gluten-free food and menu items will also grow.
“We’re going to see more of it as a restaurant industry,” he said.
