Flavorful, healthier soup stock without the store

Dear TEAM: What combination of spices and flavorings (i.e. chicken bones, etc.) will give me the same taste as chicken bouillon and beef bouillon cubes or pouches? Can I store them as ice cubes in the freezer or just mix the spices? I don’t like using ingredients that are mostly salt and preservatives.- J. H., Coaldale, Alta.

Dear J.H.: You will need to experiment with different herbs to simulate the same taste of bouillon cubes or pouches.

Stocks can be reduced down until they become a thick syrupy glaze that can be a “secret ingredient” for seasoning (about 10-15 percent of the volume of the original stock.) It will last for months tightly covered in the refrigerator.

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To prepare, degrease the stock and place it over medium-high heat. Allow the stock to simmer vigorously. Skim foam that rises to the surface and transfer the stock to gradually smaller pots as it reduces in volume. Lower the heat when the stock begins to get noticeably thicker to avoid burning.

The glaze is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat and let cool. The glaze will solidify and feel rubbery. Cover and refrigerate, or cut into small squares equivalent to one tablespoon or more and freeze for use in preparing sauces, soups or stews.

Stocks are a vital ingredient in many sauces, soups and other foods, and no store-bought variety can compare with a well-tended homemade version.

Stocks are best made with meat from birds or animals and mature vegetables, cooked slowly to extract flavor. Meat contributes flavor to the stock, while gelatin from bones gives it body and a rich, smooth texture. The characteristics of any good stock are flavor, body and clarity.

Rules for stock making

The higher the ratio of solids to water, the more flavorful the stock. The water should just barely cover the ingredients. Too much water will make a watery stock. Add water during cooking, if necessary.

It takes about eight hours for raw beef bones to give up all their richness and flavor, whereas chicken bones only need half that time.

Vegetable and fish stocks rarely require more than an hour to cook. In fact, their delicate flavors deteriorate if overcooked.

Cut the ingredients into small pieces for quicker cooking. Larger pieces for long-cooking stocks allow their flavors to be fully extracted.
The key to clear stock is to start with cold water and bring it slowly to a simmer. Never rush a stock. Simmer gently so bubbles barely break the surface. Never allow it to boil since this draws out impurities that would cloud the liquid.

Skim impurities that rise to the surface as the stock simmers – often during the first 30 minutes, and then once an hour or so.
Adjust the flavor. If the stock tastes too thin, simmer it until it is flavorful. As the water evaporates, the stock reduces in volume and its flavor is concentrated. Vegetable stock becomes bitter if reduced too much.
A well-made stock contains little fat. Begin by trimming all meat and bones of visible fat and finish by either skimming the stock carefully while still warm, or chilling the stock so the fat forms a solid layer and is easily removed. A gravy separator can also be used.
To season stock, add vegetables about 30 minutes after the stock has begun to simmer and the impurities removed. Use fresh or dried seasonings such as parsley, thyme, bay leaves and peppercorns in a bouquet garni described later.

To strain and store stock, use a fine-mesh sieve or colander lined with a double layer of cheesecloth or a coffee filter and discard the solids. Cool stock as quickly as possible by placing the pot in a sink of ice water and stirring it a few times. Do not let the stock sit out of the refrigerator. It is an excellent breeding ground for bacteria. Refrigerate covered.

When the stock is chilled, fat will rise in a solid mass that must be removed before reheating. This fat layer protects the stock while cold. Stock will keep for three to five days in the refrigerator. For prolonged storage, freeze in plastic containers or freezer bags. Small amounts of stock can be frozen in ice cube trays.

Bouquet garni

Since herbs float and get in the way as you skim the surface of a stock, tying them together in a little packet, known as a bouquet garni, is recommended. Vary the contents to suit your dish, with additions such as whole cloves, dill, lemon zest or garlic.

In a 4 x 4 inch (10 x10 centimetre) piece of cheesecloth, wrap a small bunch of parsley or parsley stems, eight sprigs of fresh thyme or one teaspoon dried, one bay leaf, and two celery leaves (optional).

Tie the cheesecloth securely with a piece of cotton twine or omit the cheesecloth and tie the herbs together at their stems. Refrigerate in a tightly covered container until ready to use.

Source: The All New All Purpose Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker, Scribner Publishing, 1997.

Arctic char experience

When I visited my friend Anne in Truro, N.S., recently, I experienced a new type of fish – Arctic char. Anne and her husband Alex have sold their dairy cows and turned to fish farming. The fish are grown in tanks enclosed in a climate-controlled building. The Arctic char resembles a mild flavored, low-fat salmon.

Anne’s neighbor Chris prepared a wonderful meal for us with Arctic char as the feature. I think it was the tastiest fish I have ever eaten. She adapted the following recipe from Canadian Living magazine, and served the broccoli oriental and ginger-lime buttered sweet potatoes as side dishes.

Arctic char with savory stuffing

4 Arctic char, about two

inches (five cm) thick,

(each 5 oz./150 g)

1 package (411 g)

frozen puff pastry, thawed

dill Hollandaise sauce

(recipe follows)

Savory stuffing:

1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon milk 15 mL

1 teaspoon butter 5 mL

1Ú2 cup chopped onion 125 mL

4 green onions, chopped

1Ú2 cup chopped sweet 125 mL

green pepper

1 clove garlic, minced 1

1Ú4 cup chopped fresh 50 mL

parsley

1 teaspoon dried savory 5 mL

1Ú2 teaspoon salt 2 mL

1Ú4 teaspoon pepper 1 mL

With a sharp knife, make a horizontal slit almost, but not all the way, through each fish and open it up like a book.

Make the stuffing: In small bowl, beat egg with milk; set aside. In skillet, melt butter over medium heat; cook onion, green onions, green pepper and garlic, stirring often for five minutes or until softened. Transfer to food processor along with parsley, savory, one tablespoon (15 mL) of the reserved egg mixture, salt and pepper; chop finely. Spoon over fish and fold together; set aside.

On floured surface, roll out each piece of pastry to a 14 x 11 inch (35 x 28 cm) rectangle. Brush with some of the remaining egg mixture. Cut each in half lengthwise. Lay one piece of fish in the centre of each piece of pastry. Bring long ends up to meet in centre; pinch together. Fold short ends over; press down. Transfer to greased baking sheet, seam side down. Brush with remaining egg mixture. Cut three slits in the top.

Bake in 400 F (200 C) oven for about 40 minutes or until golden. Let stand for five minutes. To serve, pour dill hollandaise sauce onto each of four warmed dinner plates. Slice each serving of fish in half; place on sauce.

The above recipe serves four.

Per serving with sauce: 882 calories; 41 g protein, 61 g total fat (17 sat. fat), 42 g carbohydrates, three g fibre, 331 mg cholesterol, 743 mg sodium.

Recommended daily intake: 12 percent calcium, 19 iron, 42 vitamin A, 25 vitamin C, 23 folate.

Dill hollandaise sauce

1Ú2 cup unsalted butter 125 mL

3 egg yolks

4 teaspoons lemon 20 mL

juice

2 teaspoons water 10 mL

1Ú4 cup chopped fresh 50 mL

dill

1Ú2 teaspoon dry mustard 2 mL

1Ú4 teaspoon salt 1 mL

pinch cayenne pepper

In small saucepan over medium heat, melt butter until bubbling but not browned. Microwave on high for one minute. Set aside.

In heatproof bowl, whisk together egg yolks, lemon juice and water. Place over saucepan of simmering water, whisking constantly, until just beginning to thicken and lighten, about three minutes. Whisk in butter in slow, steady stream until combined and thickened. Remove from heat. Whisk in dill, mustard, salt and cayenne. Makes one cup (250 mL).

Tip: Although this classic sauce should be served as soon as it is made, it may be held for 10 to 15 minutes over warm water, then whisked before serving.

Broccoli oriental

4 bunches broccoli, 4

trimmed

8 tablespoons 120 mL

sesame oil

4 tablespoons soy 60 mL

sauce

4 tablespoons sesame 60 mL

seeds, toasted

1 cup toasted cashews 250 mL

4 green onions, sliced

diagonally