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The art of welding

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Published: April 2, 2009

First I will deal with the basics of stick, TIG and MIG welding. After that, I hope to get into leading edge technologies.

I will also cover the more subtle nuances of how to produce a good weld in different kinds of on-farm situations.

Our ground is good and the amperage is set, so let’s get going on stick welding, the basis of all electrical welding.

Welding with electricity was pioneered in the 1890s and that original stick welding technology is still considered the best all around method.

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Stick is also the most cost-effective point of entry if you’re just starting to buy equipment. If you expect to ever become a really good welder, start with stick and get that right first.

Stick requires a fairly high skill level, but once you’ve mastered it you can do more with it than other methods.

Novice welders often have trouble with arc length. To deal with it, constantly watch the end of the electrode and where it’s at in relation to the puddle. You want to keep the stick in front of the puddle and out of the puddle. Pull the puddle with the stick.

It’s also important to listen to the sound of the arc, a nice snapping-crackle sound. If you’re getting a lot of spatter, the amperage may be too high or hot.

Generally, a quick way to achieve the proper arc length is to get the electrode as close as possible to the puddle without touching it. It’s 100 percent attention and focus every second.

Pick the right stick or electrode for the job. Probably the most widely used stick for common applications is the 7018.

It comes in a variety of diameters to suit the material you’re welding. It can deal with slight rusting or paint but definitely not oil or grease.

The 7018 is a general purpose X-ray quality stick with a nice fluid or wet feeling. It should give a good weld on most projects on the farm.

A welder must have written the old adage about cleanliness being next to godliness. Surface preparation is always critical, even on new metal. Take the time to grind the steel down to a nice shine.

You will not get a good weld if the electricity has to pass through pickling oil on new metal or layers of paint, grease, rust and previous welds on old metal. Electricity requires a clear path to follow, so grind and clean right down to bare metal.

A good ground is essential to create a clear path for your electricity. Beginners often think if they have an arc they must have a good ground, but that isn’t the case.

The amperage you select must be able to travel through your ground clamp. If the ground isn’t good, you get an amperage drop or an erratic arc, which causes a poor weld.

It’s become more of a problem with the popularity of spring clamps. They wear out with time and need to be replaced. The good old screw-clamp style is still the best.

With experience, you begin to feel when the ground isn’t solid. Often you can hear your ground clamp arcing or even see sparks flying from the clamp. That means it’s trying to gain a better connection.

A clean ground is as important as a clean metal surface. Grind the base metal to a shine to make it as easy as possible for the electricity to flow.

The coating on the outside of the 7018 stick is an iron powder with other ingredients. When you strike an arc, this flux super heats and vaporizes into a gas that shields your puddle from the atmosphere. It’s just like having a tank of shielding gas protecting your puddle.

One of the main benefits of a stick welder is its versatility. You can buy rods for aluminum and stainless steel, and you can switch from one type of rod to another in seconds. You can weld just about anything except really thin sheet metal. That’s a challenge with stick. With most common rods, like the standard 7018, the puddle stays hot and fluid for a long time. That’s what burns through thin material. This is where MIG or TIG shine.

However, if you should be required to weld thin sheet metal with a stick welder, there are special cellulose based rods such as 6013.

The word cellulose is Latin for paper. The flux coating on these rods is made of paper and wood fibres. When you weld, it actually smells like burning paper or wood.

The reason they work on thin sheets is the puddle freezes fast, so it doesn’t burn through as easily.

There’s an optimum amperage setting for every electrode type and size. Obviously the larger the diameter of the rod, the more amperage is required.

For more information, contact Jason Feal at njfeal@shaw.ca.

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